The Cádiz Charm

Cádiz is the oldest city in all of Europe. It was the last city to secede in the Spanish civil war and the first to fall under Franco. Now, it’s a beautiful town on the Atlantic coast known for its seafood and nice beaches. I spent last weekend in Cádiz in Casa Caracol, which I’ve ranked as top two in my experience. We wandered all over the old part of the city (the modern half is pretty ugly in comparison) and walked down a long pier to the castle of San Sebastian. On the shore, someone had created its replica as a sandcastle, the best one I’ve ever encountered (I later found out from other friends who decided to sleep on the beach that the creators slept there too, guarding their masterpiece).

Back at the hostel that night, my friend and I began to prepare our dinner; cooking is always fun since we don’t get to cook or even choose what we are eating each day. As we began, one thing led to another and suddenly we were making pasta with five other people. All cutting vegetables and chorizo and boiling water, we learned each other’s names and origins, kissing cheeks and bumping into each other in the small kitchen. Suddenly there were 15 people sharing this dish around the mosaic table, and every one of them was content, enjoying the meal and the company, not caring about who made or brought what. It was a communal moment like I had never experienced. This compassionate vibe sugarcoated the whole weekend, and the hostel quickly felt more like a home. The terrace, filled with hammocks and plants, made a great environment for talking late into the night, in many different languages at once, as people passed a guitar around and others helped by drumming on their laps or tapping a wine cork between their lips (try it, it makes a nice sound).

We met two German vegans traveling around Europe and later South America. We went with them to the central market, a huge spot for fresh vegetables and seafood. For their meals, they greatly enjoyed nineteen mangos or three giant melons or whatever large quantity of fruits or vegetables they felt like having; they were a fun and incredibly free couple of travelers to meet. We also met a French girl who was celebrating having just completed her Masters degree: the first European philosophy major I’ve met yet! It was exciting to talk to her about her studies and the commune she lives in right outside of Paris.

Cádiz is also experiencing the highest rate of unemployment in Spain. One girl who has been living in Casa Caracol for the past month joked that the people of Cádiz are largely out of work because the beach is so beautiful for spending one's days, and it doesn't cost a thing! It was quite a cleansing trip to Cádiz, enjoying tapas and fresh vegetables, the beautiful beaches and beautiful people.